Tuesday, September 25

Vancouver, 9.24.07


Well, we've made it to Vancouver. It's amazing here, with 10,000 foot peaks jutting out of the oceans and coves and bays. Really reminds of New Zealand, actually.

So we hung out in towns in Montana for a few days: Livingston, where we found a fantastic In-n-Out burger stand with cheap veggie burgers and Wilkinson's Montana ice cream (graham cracker and huckleberry for me, a coffee shake for the hubbie), as well as a belgian-style microbrewery. Stuck around there for 2 nights, recovering from the threat of bears in an overpriced Econo Lodge* and catching up on our eating. A beautiful white horse seemed to have been abandoned in a dirt corral just next door to the hotel for our entire Livingston stay. I fed it carrots, and called the humane society when we left to see if someone could check in on its well-being. Next, we stopped in Bozeman, where we hoped to meet up with an old college acquaintance and dear friend of Claire's, but just couldn't work it out. After just one night there, which almost didn't happen because of the meager and expensive camper accomodations of the town, we had visited the town's huge local brewery, sampled all of its pastries, found that the dance school had moved well outside of the center of town, spent a number of hours using its amazing library and free internet, and successfully slept in the van streetside in the rain without having to pay anyone a cent. The next day, we tried to stay longer to make it to the evening when Nikki and Adam were free, but the road was calling. We made it as far as the Montana-Idaho border at Lolo Springs, where we were able to soak our dirty bones in some hot hot water and exercise in a pretty frigid outdoor pool in the middle of the mountains. Jesse powered on all the following day and night to the Washington-Canada border. We stayed at a national parks campground in our tent, on a very temperate evening while the wind blew harshly through the trees, sounding everything like rain, but it never was.

The campsite at the border:
Now, about this Washington-Canada border: I knew it was apple season, and didn't anticipate how excited I would get once the apple trees began showing themselves through the Okanagan valley in Washington. Deep red apples were dotting trees everywhere along the roadside, like cherries, but 5 times the size. Farmstand followed farmstand, and the orchards were harvesting apples into huge boxes, some piled 10 high, 20 wide, on the sides of the road. We stopped at a stand that allowed me to pick both a green and a red one from some trees behind its shed, with only a little bullying from my end, and J and I wolfed them down as we crossed the Canada border. I had to put the remnants into a cooler past the border, as the guard said a simple garbage can would not do. Past the border, the apple trees continued as we entered Osoyoos, and further into British Columbian wine and farm country. Here's what I have to say about all that:

First, do you all know that the U.S. dollar is now worth less than the Canadian dollar? Last time I was here, it was about $1.50 to each $1 canadian, but now it's about 92 U.S. cents to $1 canadian. Pretty ugly. Things were also kind of expensive outside of Vancouver, so we had to watch it a bit. Although the area of British Columbia that we traveled through is wine country, the wines were really nothing to speak of, except for a certain berry winery, which we discovered after visiting a few other wineries, a hot springs town, and a herbal farm. (We passed the cheese farms, because how much can we really commit to eating more cheese on the road?) The woman at said berry winery told us that they harvest all their berries from the wild, and that berries grow wild everywhere along the roadside. We had a great extended conversation while she got us drunk on samples, and now we have an option to work with them next spring and summer, if we are in the area again. Also, at this very same winery, Sugi got terribly attacked by another dog, the ward of the woman in the testing room. She survived with some minor flesh wounds, but it was a pretty vicious attack to her neck, and I got a little bit up trying to wrench that stupid dog off of her. Funny enough, she seemed rather roused emotionally by the attack, though she did take a couple days to get back to her old self, recovering from the excitement of it all. We spent that night in an amazing spot up North Vancouver, on the water, a cove, where the beach was littered with HUGE petrified trees, and the campground was full of very loud people. We had a huge hike the day after, where I found some of the berries along the trails, blackberry-types, and they were TASTY. And today, we are doing the rounds of Vancouver, eating very well and staying at a decent little motor hotel right downtown. Vancouver is pretty awesome, but I'm sure we'll have more to say in the upcoming posts.

*Note: all the hotels seem overpriced these days. When did the median nightly price go up to $100? ??

Thursday, September 20

Pool Days, 9.19.07

We've been finding swimming pools wherever we go: at campgrounds, at hotels, motels, hot springs pools, YMCAs. The pools act for me as a sort of elixir, a reset button, taking us on to the next set of days and nights spent out in the world. I've taken to doing ballet exercises in the pool, and Jesse seems also to have found his way to some sort of anachronistic aerobic exercises in the pool. I think the water is serving as salvation from hours spent sitting in the car.

Tonight, we are at Lolo Hot Springs, on the border of Montana and Idaho, where we are camping right across the road from the pools. It's cold outside, but the indoor springs pool, a sort of wooden room with vaulted roof, was lovely and hot. Jesse saw that the springs had a 30% nitrous oxide content, and we're good and dizzy after a long soak. WiFi seems to be everywhere, so tuning in before we head deep into further woods through Washington and Canada. Look for us again around Vancouver, around Sunday. Oh, I am looking forward to Vancouver!

Tuesday, September 18

Expressing our Feeling

A belated yet toothy shout --to all those who opened their hearts and homes to these n'er -do-wells in the great Middle-west
Here's to you! Jacqui, Sandy, Tracy, Kara, Claire, Sam and Andy, Jim and Betty, Amie and Spencer, and Meg. LOVE!!!!!!!!!!

Pics from the first National Park


Yellowstoned


Wow!
What a place. No, not the Urbana Cornfest with Parliament headlining(the above wildlife).
Yellowstone National Park! We saw bisons, martens, bald and golden eagles, coyotes, fox, deer, elk, a moose, a bear, and a cougar. Two men were attacked by grizzlys in a week (they shared a room at the hospital!), which provided the purrfect distraction. The weather was just about perfect, too. Sixties and sunny to thirties at night. Bets, Sugi and I camped for a solid week in Wyoming. Every day was a deliciously slow learning curve on packing, sleeping in the outdoors, etc.

Wednesday, September 12

Buffalo Again, 9.11.07

Today, we are still in Buffalo, Wyoming, at the same campground. It's not that this is such a spectacular place, but this campground called Deer Park is ship-shape clean, has a pool and hot tub, not a lot of inhabitants, and a sink for washing dishes, which is pretty nice, and i know we're both pretty tired of driving. So we stayed another day. Funny enough, there are huge turkeys running wild around the grounds, aggressively competing with the deer also roaming about. We don't understand how so many tasty birds can be allowed to run free, but that's just how it is around here. We visited an old, old hotel and bar and restaurant that also is a western museum place, after trying to sell a couple pairs of antiquey shoes I've been carrying around at some antique stores in town. Long story short, the hotel owner was interested in the shoes and took them for the hotel museum in exchange for a few rounds for J and me at the bar. So now if you ever visit the Occidental Hotel in Buffalo, Wyoming, look for some little red and brown shoes donated by Beth and Jesse Williams.

As I am the designated cook of this little adventure, getting to know how to cook on the fly in the outdoors better and better. It's kinda fun, at least for now. No other fanfare to report for this lovely September 11 date. Tomorrow, we decide whether to fight the possible storms in Yellowstone or head another direction. It's not as easy to drive out of the weather in the mountains, alas.

Tuesday, September 11

Checking in from Checked Out

PPics will be coming soon!

Not much yet to say , as I've been fitting the bill of 'male, driver of nearly all the miles, etc. Bets and I were fortunate to have overstayed the Arctic air, and rain in our first motel room on Sunday. Spent the night in Wall (Drug!), South Dakotah staying out of the not quite freezing rain. The air is clean. Off to Wyoming!

-Jesse

Monday, 9.10.2007

Beth: After more than 2 weeks of visiting in the midwest, we finally drove away from our families and friends on Friday morning, fueled by a hearty breakfast made by Jesse's big sister, Tracy. We found a great campground that night in the northwestern reaches of Missouri, in a place called Big Lake, close to the Louis and Clark trail. Jesse made it all the way to the Badlands of South Dakota by Saturday night (he has driven all but 200 miles of this trip thus far, and i think we both like it that way), where we camped right inside the park and woke to moon-like scraggy peaks surrounding us, followed by a great hike through chalky white and red lands. I'm starting to be grateful that we're taking this trip through the U.S., because it reminds me of how much beauty and resource we are surrounded by, and how much I could love my country, if only I could agree with my countrymen. Jesse is committed to the blue highways (the back roads), and I am looking forward to the adventures of the coming weeks, as well as shaking off this feeling that i should be getting back to work sometime soon.
Here are some of my notes.

Notes on Missouri:
  • Very small pickup trucks for sale. I mean tiny, with a little flatbed that goes up at an angle, like a toy. I want one. Mariah would, too.
  • One can see just where a rainstorm might end in these flat lands, and drive that way to get out of it. It's nice to be able to modify a driving route based on trying to get out of a storm. I think it's like that in Illinois, as well.
  • We got a little dog (pup) tent for Sugi, who tries and tries to get into our big tent whenever we're camping, from the time we leave our car. Thankfully she likes it, and we liked that it stopped her pacing and panting. Now we can all enjoy the outdoors in our own special ways.
  • Mosquitos and mosquitos, but they don't bite as bad as in Ohio and Illinois. Carcasses all over the inside ceiling of the van after one night of battles.
  • Crossed the Missouri river several times. How did that happen? I'm supposed to be the navigator, but I don't always do so well.
  • Tales of okie noodling (look for the informative documentary at your local library!), as well as huge japanese carp jumping from Big Lake, knocking water skiers from their sport. We heard some heavy splashing at dusk and dawn - maybe it's not just a myth.
  • Our first official night camping in the van. We should have chosen the tent because the mosquitos forced us to keep the windows closed and we about suffocated.
Notes, Nebraska:
  • Government corn.
  • Cranes flying like a silver school of fish overhead, while birds of prey tried to tear one from the group. We stopped to watch.
  • Nebraska is like a little Idaho, with the rolling hills and green everywhere. Beautiful - I never knew.
South Dakota:
  • Feels like we're in the clouds - they are so close we could touch them. as within the clouds, it has become very cold all of a sudden.
  • Badlands and indian territory. Tons of poverty in this moonscape.
  • I failed to capture any of the beauty of this state on film. Alas.

Monday, September 10

THIS IS OUR TRAVEL BLOG

This blog of Jesse's echos so many of our sentiments, in why we are leaving the U.S., in the issues that have had impact on us over the years, in the inspirations that have and do buoy us on our way. Thus, we will henceforth log our travel updates in this place, to share with all our friends and families. Feel free to read into the archives for some of our history, over which Jesse has diligently kept vigil for the past few years.

Saturday, March 10

So true

“It needs to hurt like hell before you can have an intelligent discussion,” said David Shields, a Mexico City energy analyst who has written a book about Pemex.

From the NYT, OIL.

Saturday, February 24

Sunday, February 18

Over the Levee and through the ringer

The following are my favorite excerpts from Thomas Homer-Dixon's The Upside of Down.


Conventional economics is the dominant intellectual rationalization of today’s world order. As we’ve overextended the growth phase of our global adaptive cycle, this rationalization has become relentlessly more complex and rigid and progressively less tenable. Breakdown will, all at once, discredit this rationalization and create intellectual space for new ideas to flourish. But this space will be brutally competitive. We can boost the chances that humane alternatives will thrive by working them out in detail and disseminating them as widely as possible beforehand.

We all ask these questions when we’re young, till the obvious discomfort of adults around us makes us stop…Because we’re reluctant or unable to talk about moral or existential values—and these values remain largely unexplored—unitarian values fill the void. This is one reason why consumerism has developed such a firm grip on so many of us in the West. Without a coherent notion of what will give our lives meaning, we try to satisfy our need for meaning by buying ever more stuff. In the process, the mental muscle that allows us to think and talk about values in complex and sophisticated ways atrophies. Reduced to walking appetites, we lose resilience. We become hollow people with no character, substance, or core—like eggshells that can be shattered with one sharp shock.

(I)t’s first necessary to recognize growths role in our modern economies. We take the value of constant growth for granted in our day-to-day discussions of economic matters-in our newspapers and business magazines and in political discussions. That growth is a good thing is an unchallenged, almost sacrosanct assumption. One might even say we’re collectively fixated on maintaining growth. But this is a rather curious fixation because beyond a certain point-a point many of us passed long ago-the higher incomes that growth produces apparently don’t make us any happier.

When psychologists have questioned people over the years about how happy they are, they’ve found that people in rich countries are on average no happier that people were in the 1970’s are even the 1950’s. During the intervening decades we’ve become far richer. In the United States, personal income (in constant 1995 dollars) more than doubled between 1957 and 1998. But over this period the number of people who said they were “very happy” actually declined slightly. Notes the American psychologist David Myers, “We are twice as rich and no happier”. And when we look at happiness around the world, we find that happiness is correlated with income up to about $10,000 to $13,000 per person annually, but beyond this threshold the correlation vanishes.

Money, in economists’ terminology, produces “diminishing return” of happiness. Once our basic material needs are satisfied, it turns out, we don’t need more money to be happy, but we do need loving families, supportive social relationships, absorption in satisfying activity, a sense of purpose in our lives, novelty, and security from catastrophic threats to our income and health.

So, if above a relatively modest threshold, greater material wealth doesn’t make us much happier, why do those of us who are already well off in rich countries work hard to get more of it? Psychologists and behavioral economists have offered a range of answers to this question. Some say we’re stuck on a “hedonic treadmill”: our aspirations tend to exceed our income, and as our income rises, our aspirations rise in lockstep. Others stress that our happiness is partly a result of our relative social status because human beings naturally compare themselves with other people. We’re all trying to keep up with Mr. Jones next door. If our yardstick of comparison is income, a higher income makes us happier only if it goes up relative to Jones’s income. But because Jones is working as hard as we are, nobody gets ahead, and no one feels any happier. We are essentially in an unwinnable income race with other people…

In essence, then, the logical underpinning our economies works like this: if we’re discontented with what we have, we buy stuff: if we buy enough stuff, the economy grows; if the economy grows enough, technologically displace workers can find new jobs, there will be enough economic demand to keep the economy humming and to prevent wrenching political conflict. Modern capitalism’s stability-and increasingly globalism’s stability-requires the cultivation of material discontent, endlessly rising personal consumption, and the steady economic growth this consumption generates…Our economic role in this culture of consumerism is to be little more than walking appetites that serve the function of maintaining our economies throughput. Our psychological state is comparable to that of drug addicts needing a fix: buying things doesn’t really make us happy, except perhaps for a moment after the purchase. But we do it over and over anyway.

Why? There are many reasons. But a central and often overlooked one, I think, is that consumerism helps anesthetize us against the dread produced by empty lives-lives that modern capitalism and consumerism have themselves helped empty of meaning….(T)he flip side of addiction is denial. Our addiction to growth…can only be sustained if we deny growth’s often-negative effects. But these effects are real and can be deeply personal. They likely include rich societies’ epidemic of eating disorders like obesity, anorexia, and bulimia, and their soaring rates of clinical depression….Depending on how it’s measured, the illness has become three to ten times more common in the past fifty years.

(I)n capitalist democracy, playing by the rules means not starting fights over big issues like our society’s highly skewed distribution of wealth and power. Instead, it means focusing on achieving short-term material gains-such as bettering our contracts with our employers. Put simply, our economic elites have learned (20th C)…to create a system of incentives, and a dynamic of economic growth, that diverts political conflict into manageable, largely nonpolitical channels. As long as the system delivers the goods…a rising material standard of living….no one is really motivated to challenge its foundations.

(A)bout 40 percent of the world’s population lacks sufficient water for basic sanitation and hygiene, and nearly one out of every five people has not enough to drink….Nearly half the world’s major fish stocks are now fished to their maximum limit, about 30 percent are overfished, and many have collapsed.

All of us, not just ancient astronomers or boneheaded academics, are highly conservative when it comes to our theories of reality. We don’t relinquish our core assumptions until the contrary evidence-what philosophers of science call “anomalous data”-is overwhelmingly abundant and relentlessly obvious. And often such conservatism is a good thing…..(b)ut sometimes we take this conservatism to extremes, and the result is the kind of cycles-within-cycles intellectual neuroticism that we see in Santucci’s great sphere. The contraption speaks of desperation….

One thing was clear to me now….our values must be compatible with the exigencies of the natural world in and depend on…The endless material growth of our economies is fundamentally inconsistent with the physical facts of life. Period. End of story. And a value system that makes endless growth the primary source of our social stability and spiritual well-being will destroy us.

We need a new approach to the great challenges we are confronting. Efforts at management are often important, even essential, but sometimes they aren’t going to give us a satisfactory solution. The alternative approach I advocate requires us to adapt what I’ve termed a prospective mind. We need to be comfortable with constant change, radical surprise, and even breakdown, because these are now the inevitable features of our world, and we must constantly anticipate a wide variety of futures. With a prospective mind we’ll be better able to turn surprise and breakdown, when they happen, to our advantage. In other words, we’ll be better able to achieve what I call catagenisis- the creative renewal of our technologies, institutions and societies in the aftermath of breakdown.

We have to do other things too, and advance planning for breakdown is undoubtedly the most important…In vigorous, wide-ranging, yet disciplined conversation among ourselves, we can develop scenarios of what kinds of breakdowns could occur. In this conversation, we shouldn’t be afraid to think “outside the box”—to try to imagine the unimaginable—because in a non-linear world under great pressure, we’re certain to make wrong predictions if we just extrapolate from current trends.

Moments of contingency are thus easily exploited for good or ill. Fear, hope, and greed are unleashed at the same time that social reality becomes fluid. This means that people’s motivation to change their circumstances soars just as their opportunities to accomplish change multiply. Whether the outcome of this powerful confluence is turmoil or renewal hinges-in large measure-on how the situation is framed.

People will want assurance. They will want an explanation of the disorder that has engulfed them.-an explanation that makes their world seem, once more, coherent and predictable, if not safe. Ruthless leaders can satisfy these desires and build their political power by prying open existing cleavages between ethnic and religious groups , classes, races, nations or cultures. First they define what it means to be a good person and in so doing identify the members of the we group. Then they define and identify the bad people who are members of the they group….Indeed, large numbers of people are already primed to see the world in terms of a Manichean division into good and evil…..In this stormy world, fundamentalist creeds can seem to provide a firm anchor. All such creeds claim privileged access to absolute truth, and all establish what’s right and wrong, provide strict rules of behavior, and identify friends and enemies. And because that truth comes from revelation not research, creeds justify the suspension of reason and deliberation—a kind of psychological denial that may be a balm for the bewildered but that’s truly an inept response to an ever more complex reality.

(Resilience) Events don’t have to turn out this way, because we really do have some ability to choose our future. But we have to recognize what kind of forces we’re up against, we have to have courage, and we have to be smart—not only at the time of the social earthquake and the moment of contingency that follows but also well in advance. Specifically, if we’re going to have the best chance of following a different and positive path, we must take four actions. First, we must reduce as much as we can the force of the underlying tectonic stresses in order to lower the risk of synchronous failure—that is, of catastrophic collapse that cascades across boundaries between technological, social and ecological systems. Second, we need to cultivate a prospective mind so we can better cope with surprise. Third, we must boost the overall resilience between critical systems like our energy and food supply networks And fourth, we need to prepare to turn breakdown to our advantage when it happens, because it will….Alas, humankind’s track record when it comes to proactive policy, especially in response to slow-creep problems, doesn’t inspire much confidence…Today, most of us are simply too deep in denial, and our political and economic systems are too hobbled by powerful vested interest for real change to happen in the absence of a sharp push or shock from outside. With colossal effort by the relatively small numbers of people today engaged in trying to do something about these problems, and perhaps with a good deal of luck..*&$(….so we’d better get ready for real social earthquakes.

This is where cultivating the prospective mind comes in…We can’t possibly flourish in a future filled with sharp nonlinearities and threshold effects—and somewhat paradoxically, we can’t hope to preserve at least some of what we hold dear—unless we’re comfortable with change, surprise and the essential transience of things, and unless we’re open to radically new ways of thinking about our world and about the way we should live our lives. We need to exercise our imaginations so that we can challenge the unchallengeable and conceive the inconceivable. , denying what’s happening around us, and refusing to countenance anything more than incremental adjustments to our course are just about the worst things we can do. These behaviors increase our rigidity and dangerously extend the growth phase of our adaptive cycle…

Of course, many of these recommendations fly in the face of the ideology of today’s globalized capitalism. In it’s most dogmatic formulation, this ideology says that larger scale, faster growth, less government, and more efficiency, connectivity and speed are always better. Slack is always waste. So resilience—even as an idea, let alone as a goal of public policy—isn’t found…..And because our leaders hardly ever think about resilience, , we keep doing things that make our lives progressively less resilient—we pile on more debt, build tract housing over our finest cropland, develop addictions to distant sources of energy, become so specialized that we can’t take care of ourselves when everyday technologies fail, and fill every nook and cranny of our days with so much junk information and pointless running around that we don’t have time to reflect on what we’re doing or where we’re going.

Friday, February 16

Wicked/Weird

http://blogs.zdnet.com/social/?p=91


It was only a matter of time really but, still, weird.

Thursday, February 15

Monday, February 5

Joni Mitchell + Ballet + Alberta (?)

"If I had a heart/I’d cry.” It is one of the most haunting melodies she has ever written.

“My heart is broken in the face of the stupidity of my species,” she said. “I can’t cry about it. In a way I’m inoculated. I’ve suffered this pain for so long. We were expelled from Eden. What keeps us out of Eden?” She thought about this for a moment before riffing on a Dylan line: “I tried to tell everybody, but I could not get it across.”

“Well, I’m being more specific now,” she allowed. “The West has packed the whole world on a runaway train. We are on the road to extincting ourselves as a species. That’s what I meant when I said that we’ve got to get ourselves back to the garden.”

Thursday, February 1

Ben's Pool Epiphany

Even the smarvelous Ben Stein has the time to have thoughts about the wider meanings...

Wednesday, January 31

Bringing It All Back Home

Warming: "People in Latin America were most worried while U.S. citizens were least concerned"

And our thoughtful neighbors in the North Country?
Turns out they feel more reasonable than Americans, too.

An avalanche of evidence greeted with a smug shrug.
What the hell gives?!?!?

Tuesday, January 23

More Hogwash from a group calling themselves Environmental Defense

  • 1Rank of 2006 as hottest year on record in the continental United States.

  • 1Rank of America as top global warming polluter, emitting almost as much as the European Union, Russia and Japan combined.

  • 20%Percent increase of America's carbon dioxide emissions from the burning of fossil fuels since 1990.

  • 15%Percent increase of America's carbon dioxide emissions forecasted by 2020 if we do not cap pollution.

  • 80%Percent decrease in America's global warming pollution required by 2050 to prevent the worst consequences of global warming.

  • 78Number of days by which the U.S. fire season has increased over the past 20 years - tied closely to increased temperatures and earlier snowmelt.

  • 200Number of people who could be displaced globally by extreme droughts, sea level rise and flooding by 2080.

  • 358Number of U.S. mayors (representing 55 million Americans) who have signed the U.S. Mayors Climate Protection Agreement pledging to meet or beat Kyoto goals in their communities.

  • 1Number of federal bills passed by Congress to set a mandatory, economy-wide cap on America's global warming pollution.

  • 1Number of times President Bush has mentioned "global warming" or "climate change" in his previous State of the Union speeches.